The Fashion Week

It was business as usual for NY fashion week despite the blow to the industry financially. Cotton farmers are reeling from rainstorm related problems. Hence cotton will no longer cheap. But the show must go on. The NY fashion week had designers tightening their belts with green themes, eco-friendly designs to cheer the industry. Fashion is all about glamour, style, celerity spotting in the Apple city. When fashion runways opened, the idea was to make the customers spend little money. Right now the mood is for saving not spending. But with Christmas and New Year weeks away, a little bit of spending is acceptable. The NY fashion week now see a new face of fashion ‘value for money’ and not ‘luxury’ that has been the mainstay for so many decades. Designers scaled down their designs but not their imaginations. Hence there was a more affordable version of collections at the NY fashion week in 2009. Designer Michael Kors bought out one shoulder dresses with flannel suits. Most suitable for wearing in warm weathers. Even Donna Karen chose to present well cut suits and blazers. They were teamed with jersey tops. A neat buy for a corporate executive, surely.
From the point of view of consumers, they were sharper to critique the shows at the NY fashion week. Some comments posted once the shows were finished. They revealed summer may have few takers for the trends with a dash of color, from this season which closes with the year end bash.

One of the interesting things about the prestigious Milan Fashion Week is its continual trend of introducing something novel in fashion. Its amazing how over the years Milan’s aesthetic fashion sensibilities remain of interest to the rest of the globe. Fashion empires take the fashion week seriously and create beautiful collections. Take for example, the new Fendi look for spring 2010. It was neat and clean. There was nothing bizarre and each garment was thought of from the consumer point of view. Tender and subtle designs and hues made up the lingerie collection. Even Karl Lagerfeld was far removed from the overt French laces that dominate his collections. This time presented a beautiful wearable style. That’s exactly what fashion trends are all about-not just satisfying their own whims but considering the consumer preferences.

The other collections that featured the Milan fashion week runways were Marni with prints and simple textured clothes with scarves and glares typical summer accessories. Must say it was casual chic at its best for a summer afternoon. There was a slight departure from the regular style of Dolce & Gabbana. They represented a queer combination of flamencos and gothic designs. Was spring on their mind? Yes, with darker shades. They do have their die-hard loyal fans. The next feature by Gucci revealed the fashion empire’s taste for sleek city style. It did get thumbs up from the crowd. The evening dresses by Bottega Venetta were simple and monochromatic with a dash of color here and there.

It is now a quarter of a century that London fashion week has been in existence. It has been a delightful experience for many generations of designers and buyers who have patronised the shows over the years. Fashion sense has evolved and many changes have taken place for women and mens’ fashion across Britain. When the show began one could see the global impact of the London Fashion week. The entire week was marked with reputed brands and designers, fashion media making the most of the new trends. And guess what, it was the Mayor of London Boris Johnson who graced the cover of Elle as an icon. Was this a new trend for local Brits?

The catwalks also saw big names like Burberry, Pringle, Matthew Williamson, Antonio Berardi, Jonathan Saunders, Clements Ribeiro bring out some lovely collections. Other celeb-spotting divas that could be recognized were Betty Jackson, John Rocha, Julien Macdonald, Margaret Howell and Jasper Conran, Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll, Erdem, Mark Fast and Mary Katrantzou. The entire event was a 50 million pound extravaganza that had 59 catwalks in 6 straight days of fashion at its best. There were more than 5000 registered buyers. The London Fashion week also included the eco-friendly collections sponsored by Monsoon. Eight years in a row, this prestigious show has been sponsored by Canon. It seems that the Union Jack will continue to fly high in the capitol for long-thus bringing the economy the much needed respite from the current recession.

With the number of beauty queens representing India in various pageants in the last decade, it is no surprise that India fashion week has caught the eyes of international buyers, designers, traders and reputed studios looking to hire Indian designers. The latest fashion shows that have become prestigious in New Delhi and Mumbai generate a buzz much before they are held. The India fashion week is followed on twitter, facebook and rest of the international media. The celebrity circus is in full swing as cricket, cinema stars, models and designers go over the top to attract attention. In some shows even politicians and power loaded politicians walk the ramp. Does this mean that fashion is not considered serious business in the country? On the contrary the number of fashion shows has increased. This year nearly 110 designers produced collections for the prestigious shows. Ritu Beri one of the top designers returned to India after a stint with a Paris studio where she has showcased her ethnic talent. Her international experience is being seen as a forerunner for other designers to emulate in the future.

There is a curious mix of designers who cater solely to consumers and those who design costumes for cinema. Other than India, this trend is rarely seen in other countries. Over the years the collections have become on par with international standards. It is helping also the Indian textile industry that is now gaining exposure to international markets. Indian models are being hired by international designers.

The recent typhoon in the east coast of Sydney may have been a dampener for the local residents. Moreover, Down under, the fashion week is making less noise than its counterparts in London, Paris Milan and New York. No Australian designer has been able to in filter the haute couture scene that is still being dominated by the old vanguards like YSL, Dior, Prada, Gucci the European masters of the craft. Cultural differences also have marked the designs of many Aussie designers that are yet to break the decade old mould of fashion fantasy. The latest Australian Week represented bizarre, over the top designs, accessories and loud make-up. The subtleness of the Paris couture was missing. The eco-friendly designs from LA are likely to do better than the under water theme presented at the Australian fashion week.

Perhaps down under the ecological themes have not yet reached. It is surprising, since the internet is one medium that has the latest of the premiere fashion trends from Europe and America. Models are still old-fashioned. The new exotic looks of Afro-Asians, browns and black tones also have to make a debut at the Australian fashion week. Individual designers are travelling to other countries to hone their own ability to design. Yeah they are getting new ideas, but then collectively they are not able to match the runaway pride of the counterparts in America or eve Asia which is center stage. The focus is now on designers who can come up with affordable couture. None of that was seen in Sydney or Melbourne, the two cities that define quintessential Australian fashion.

Across the border, Mexico City began with an initial lukewarm response to the Clara Gonzalez’s simple collection of satins and silk gowns. Few colors like lime green and red (with a huge rose in front) failed to at least excite the media. Will buyers lap the trends is yet to be seen. Clara’s designs were not very heavy with accessories or head gears. The scene at the fashion week Mexico, where Mercedes Benz put up their show was slightly better. Local Mexican designer David Salomon was under the spotlight. He did manage to create some ethereal looks as models sashayed down the catwalk. The reaction from the crowd was positive. Certainly there was an element of ‘spring’ in his collection. The gorgeous flowing white robe was a clear favourite. The portly designer has much to smile as the collection has become a trendsetter in the region.
The Mexican fashion industry has its own loyal clientele and designers catering to them. When Mercedes Benz arrived nearly a decade ago to push the local designers, it was a platform for them to showcase their talent on the international platform. They have been able to do that for the last few years. The best of the fashion shows are being held at the exclusive shopping centre Antara Polanco. Duirng the five day event the best of Mexican talent is showcased. Designers like Macario Jiménez, Armando Mafud, Hector Terrones, Carlo Demichelis, Pepa Pombo and Alberto Rodríguez have been able to carry on their tradition.

If art and fashion can make a good combination, so can geometry and fashion come together. At the LA fashion week this was evident at the Lizz Wasserman show. Right in the middle of the runway there was a geometric installation where the models walked…figuring out the exits and entries perfectly. The spring collection for 2010 was simple with typical geometric shapes and designs and cuts. It was called Popomomo show. It turned out that organic cotton, hemp and other sustainable materials were used heavily to produce this collection. Buckminster Fuller, German Dada artist Hannah Höch, and Russian constructivists were the main inspiration for this collection.

As part of trendsetting, one saw a cool blending of brown and black on the runway. Inspired by the first lady of America Michelle Obama, designer Louis Verdad chose white and gold to dress his models. With funky hair styles and simple accessories like handbags, sun glasses he got a standing ovation. The theme for his collection was to portray power women like Michelle Obama, Oprah Winfrey and Grace Jones. Along with this theme in action, another blender was the Mode Israel 2010 Spring collection. Natural hairstyles for black and brown skin tones were the highlight of the shows. The afro puffs, curls, perms made their way into the runway of LA fashion week.

The city of celebrities saw quite a few of them gracing the front rows of the some of the designers. But designers got their due importance at LA fashion week.

The oldie goldies rued the fashion fiesta dished out in gay Paree. In chic New York and Gothic London shows, the mood changed, keeping in mind, the recession blues. Designers played it safe in this season’s fashion week runaway. Clearly it was a departure from the past. Bizarre, outlandish outfits and accessories gave way to safe lady like costumes with scarves and simple hairstyles. Did the designers run out of ideas? But they accepted that had to cater to the street girl. New York already fumed under the media glare of fashion faux pas by media moghuls. Are these the kind of people who will be setting the trends for 2010?
The season kicked started with the fashion week runaway devoted to the old vanguard of Givenchy, Stella McCartney YSL, Hussein Chalayan and Karl Lagerfeld. In High Street Paris, these designers chose to play safe. At least financially the shows were a commercial success. Short skirts, pleated dresses with sleek cuts, black and white ensembles reigned.
Trend spotting began in September in New York. The fashion week runway in Apple city rocked hard core trend lovers with women’s designs. If a few designers chose military colors and cuts in the premiere American metropolis, it is quite understandable. Traces of feminine graces were evident with bows and laces, painterly prints, bike jackets, jumpsuits, A-line dresses in metallic colors. In London graphic prints, Edwardian apparel and short suit laces ruled the fashion week runaway. Now, wait for the next trend in 2010.

The best way to know what’s ‘in’ and what’s ‘out’ every season is to check out the Fall Fashion Week that commence in the last quarter of 2009. With Christmas and New Year being the target, autumn collections focus on party wears. This year, the fall fashion week has been diverse in its presentation. Designers are not only focussing on the young but also the not-so-young. It seems a good idea because that’s where really the money comes from! In the fashion capitals of the world, one could see models, strutting the ramp with the designer stuff targeting the not-so young crowd, comfortable with their ages. They have the power and can flaunt their fashion statement.
The Fall fashion week commenced in London, the British capital going retro… 25 years ago what people were wearing. Designers like Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood, Peter Pilotto, Paul Smith, Aquascutum started the trend with designs of the yore. This is the glimpse into the coming shows that would impact what stores would stocks for the customers for coming months. Moving across the Dover port, towards Paris, the grand city of lights, designers presented more contemporary designs. Here the designers chose to stick to the futuristic trends of the 21st century. Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld, Bernhard Weilham, Gaspard Yurkievich and Masion Martin Margeila ensured the audience went bananas with models wearing the fruity head gear! Across the Atlantic, in New York, new fabrics graced the runaways with Narciso Rodriguez,Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors shows.

The prestigious Mercedes fashion week 2009 leading to the trends of 2010, few weeks away revealed some chic daily wear styles. Yep, it was not all glamour and bizarre that dominated the style trends. While LA went completely green and eco-friendly, New York saw black as a dominant shade. Charlotte Ronson bought a Gothic touch (coinciding with Halloween, perhaps). She turned away from her signature feminine soft line to present a darker shade.
If DKNY celebrated 20 years in the New York Mercedes Fashion Week, then Eco-Ganik sprung a simpler collection in LA. Most designs were extremely wearable. Is this a sign of times for fashion? To be grounded closer to reality? It is not the A-list celebs that are making news, but the clothes that the fit models are wearing. And green is the favourite color.
Eco-Ganik’s designer Hoda Mallone leads the 2009 collection with eco-friendly natural fabrics. This label already has a huge A-list clients like Superwoman Angelina Jolie, Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan, Halle Berry and Cameron Diaz. So environment is in focus and runways are picking up trends to go green. If Eco-Ganik is creating an eco-friendly line free of chemicals in their apparel, they are nurturing the green revolution. The clothes displayed by this five year old company, relies heavily on regular skirts, wearable tunics and tops-totally chic and feminine. Chose any one of these affordable dresses for dinner or lunch dates with pals. Or even a day at the office, they are subtle.